Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Dress of the Century: 1930-1939

I am working on a real mid-1930s dress at the moment and it's time for the next installment of my series: the 1930s! Which also happens to be my favorite fashion decade! Enjoy:

1930

1931

1932

1933

1934

1935

1936

1937

1938

1939

Thursday, August 21, 2014

Dress #25 -- McCall's 6993 (Archive Collection skirt)

Hey there! I made the skirt from McCall's 6993 "Archive Collection" pattern:

It turned out nicely once I overcame some of the poor drafting and silly instructions. Here's what I had to work with:

The Right Yoke piece is about an inch too short! I don't know if all of them are like this or if I just got a bum batch, but add an inch or so to the narrow end of piece #5. I had to sew mine on after the fact. This is the piece that is too short:

I also didn't really like the instructions for sewing on the yokes. Here's how they have you do it:

There's NO FLIPPING WAY I'm going to get nice clean points doing it that way! Lol. I actually did it this way at first and I just got a rounded, bunched-up mess. So I unpicked the entire thing, pressed under the yokes' seam allowances, and topstitched them on. The result was nice pointy points! I didn't line or interface mine, though, but if I did line it I would have hand sewn it on. The fabric I used was stiff enough to not need it.

The actual skirt when made up reminds me of a 30s/40s hybrid. It actually leans more toward 40s with the shorter length and the bell shape. The hem on mine is 5/8! That's it! So it's kind of too short to be "1933" (as the envelope proclaims!) If you want a classic, proper 1930s look, this pattern is not it! But -- I wore it out last night all done up 1940s-style and I got compliments on it. I like it. I'd make it again now that I know what to do.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Dress #24 -- Simplicity 7583 (1976)

Hey! St. Anne has come down and put her blessing on me because I actually made another dress! I made it from leftover fabric in my stash so the fabric choice may not be "era appropriate", but this one I really just made for fun:

I've never made a dress this late in the 1970s -- the collar/facing instructions were rather different from anything I've ever done. I was a bit confused at first, but once I realized what was going on it was simple as a pimple! The back shoulders has a yoke and there is some gathering above and below the yoke, but besides that this dress is essentially a muumuu that is sewn straight up the sides -- armholes and all:

There's no zipper or buttons -- it pulls on over your head very easily. Belting it pulls it in and gives it that "dirndl"-style gathered waist that was popular in the late 70s and early 80s:

I really didn't think I was going to like it and I really did just make it as a bit of a joke in that fabric and all....but I really like it! It's actually flattering, it fits perfectly, and it's incredibly comfortable! I might make it again in safari kakhi ;)

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

New Fall Patterns For 2014

I have been seriously lacking in the sewing department lately. Like, I went to Jo-Ann's last week and couldn't even be bothered to search through the fabric! I've got plenty to make, just no motivation lately. I'm sure it will come back soon, though. In the meantime, here are some new vintage and vintage-y Fall 2014 patterns from the big 4:

Butterick 6108 (1912)

Butterick 6093 (1912)

I am quite happy about these two!! I will certainly be buying them and I will more than likely make the skirt for 6108! I'm not too crazy about the featured version for number 6093 -- all those lacey ruffles just remind me of a nightgown and they may be totally out of my sewing league! Luckily, there is a very cute short-sleeved, collared version that can be made and I adore it! I've been needing a 1910s dress in my wardrobe and this one may just be perfect:

Butterick 6093

Butterick 6094 (Gertie)

Butterick 6105 (Gertie)

Gertie has a couple new Fall patterns. I might pick up 6094. It reminds me of the dresses I used to buy at Bettie Page Clothing (now Tatyana Boutique). Being me, I'd rather make my own and save about $50 instead of overpaying for stretch polyester...(shade!). The jacket (6105) can be made in two lengths, short and mid-thigh. I'm not much interested in jackets so I won't be buying or making it.

That's it for Butterick's vintage-y goodness! Overall, very happy. The 1912 patterns and the Gertie circle dress are impressive and I just can't wait to sew myself 6093! Let's see what Simplicity has to offer:

Simplicity 1319 (1950s)

This is it! Once again, Simplicity disappoints! I have a TON of REALLY AWESOME vintage Simplicity patterns so I KNOW they can do better than this -- even going by old look books! It's like they don't even try anymore. Like, how many toddler "retro" patterns do we need? NONE, that's how many we need. Simplicity, dig out those 1940s look books and get researching because your retro line has been AWFUL lately.

And the latest offering from Vintage Vogue:

Vintage Vogue 8999 (1954)

Meh. Another overdone circle skirt. Seems to be mostly what VV does. I might pick this up in a sale -- not sure if I would make it. I really truly am sick of 1950s/circle skirts taking over the vintage repro pattern market. I guess they sell the best, but I find them to be all the same sans slight bodice differences. *sigh* I would love more 10s, 20s, and 60s!! Get on it pattern companies!!!

And as for the last big company, McCall, you can see my previous post about their much-anticipated "Archive Collection" for Fall 2014. Enjoy.

Dress #4 -- Simplicity 8505 (1970s repro)

I absolutely LOVE this one! Made with the 70s fabric I recently came into.